By Chris MurphyI sat at my seat overlooking the exhibition kitchen, as Vinnie Altadonna explained my order to Chef Biagio Capua in Italian and expressed my cheese preferences. This is as good as it gets. I was watching my quattro formaggi pasta sauce, prepared by a truly Italian chef who barely speaks English. Legit, delicious, and so fun to watch.
I automatically feel at home with Vinnie. We have been friends since the early Chefs of New York days, and he is truly special, and everyone who walks in is immediately a friend. This is the core thing about Italian restaurants: the food, the friends, and the family, and, of course, some good wine and an after-dinner limoncello. Vinnie has found a home here.
Gusto Italiano has been serving delicious Italian food since the end of the pandemic, with Chef Capua at the helm of the kitchen. After many years in culinary school, teaching and running kitchens in the Bay Area, Chef Capua has been at the helm since 2021. Gusto is now owned by Misty Holliday and since 2024 has expanded into the space next door, creating a cool Italian street scene hosting the full bar while the main restaurant showcases the kitchen.
Gusto has a distinct flavor base compared to most other Italian restaurants. First, this Italian chef is from the south of Italy, a native of Cosenza in Calabria, at the tip of the boot near Sicily. One of the key flavors is the Calabrian pepper, which allows a whole new world of warm, spicier flavors that are not overwhelming.
Chef Capua effortlessly switches between a variety of 00 flour pastas with many different sauces. The pastas are a hall of fame, and the use of gorgonzola cheese creates a tasty and unique flavor. Lasagna is a key part of any Italian meal, and this gorgonzola cream blends with a lighter red sauce, delivering a multi-layer taste sensation with bits of ham between the layers. This is a must-try. Vinnie explains that people come from far and wide to enjoy the Rigatoni Alla Bolognese, and it sure does deliver. I love cheese, and the quattro formaggi sauce with fettuccini hit home. Rich, luscious, and smooth, with a perfect al dente texture, is something that I will be enjoying regularly. Of course, you have your choice of pastas.
If you are looking for something more bold, the lamb chops are an excellent choice. I’m not a Big fan of Lamb, but I really enjoyed these. As Calabria is a major seafood region, my salmon choice was grilled, skin down, and was rich and buttery. You can also enjoy stewed cod with olives and capers. Chef Capua is not afraid to deliver strong flavors, and there are regular specials.
Vinnie sets the tone, setting the bar high and is not afraid to make recommendations, making you feel right at home.
Brian Young is an encyclopedia of flavors and questions. When you dine with him, you will get something that you never knew you wanted, but it’s perfect. We started with a basic linguini or spaghetti, and layered on a Calabrese pepper sauce, packing a warm punch, and folded in chicken and bacon, creating a plate that was like nothing we had tasted. He paired us with an Il Fornaio Chianti Classico, and it brought everything together.
Do not skip the bar specials where Alyssa Jackson created a salted caramel vodka and a cherry martini, served in a rocks glass. A full range is available, and your evening is not complete without a nice digestif amaretto rocks.
We finished our Gusto Italiano excursion with a tart lemon cake paired with a Southern Italian tradition, limoncello. From start to finish, it’s a happy experience.
On weekends, you can enjoy a brunch and lunch menu, and weekday lunches may return in the future.
Great to see Vinnie again, and the Gusto team, including Karen Rodriguez, make you feel like family. Makes me want to learn more Italian to learn more from Chef Capua.
Buon Appetito.
Gusto Italiano
3948 Sylvan Ave. Ste. 307, Modesto 209-567-9201
Wed-Fri. 5 – 10 pm Sat 9 am – 10 pm, Sun 9 am – 7 pm
gusto-italiano-modesto.com/
@gustoitalianomodesto
